Saturday, August 2, 2008 

Tasty Bite Tom Yum Soup, 10-Ounce Boxes (Pack of 12)


Customer Review: kinda Thai
really quite good, quite a few veggies--don't plan to make a MEAL of it, not substantial, but as opening course or if a protein source is added, very tasty
Customer Review: Tom Yuck Soup
I think my title says it all. This soup tastes nothing like authentic Tom Yum. It has a horrible smell and an inedible, rancid flavor. I'm thinking of draining the soup and using the vegetables in my own soup to decrease the waste. I can't believe those who left positive reviews - unless I got a bad batch. I'm not willing to try again to find out though. It's simply not worth the risk.


On Saturday afternoon, I caught the R-train for Brooklyn and visited with Tom Toomey, certainly one of the finest California hat store managers of the 1980s. Tom was a pioneer in the, now full-blown, downtown San Diego renaissance when he managed The Village Hat Shop in the then new Horton Plaza. Many years after his tenure at the hat store, customers would regularly come in asking for and about him. After a long stint in Russia and surrounds, he has settled in the Park Slope section of Brooklyn and is following his passion for art www.tcatdesigns.com. We took a long walk in his neighborhood and ultimately landed at Al Di La Restaurant. And what a good landing it was! Everything was top notch at this restaurant including the best entre of the weekend, the truffles and ricotta ravioli.

Heirloom On Orchard Street near Houston in the East Village.

Al Di La On the corner of 5th Avenue and Carrol in Park Slope, Brooklyn.

On to the food: Im seated with a good view of the bar and the front door Im catching the scene I am happy. The wine menu is interesting, but California is conspicuously absent as are the great pinot noirs of Oregon. Im not sure what this is about (I hope not another example of pretentious New York demonstrating their imprudent superiority by dissing California in favor of Europe Im giving them the benefit of the doubt). The two different reds I ordered (glasses) were good the quality was right for the price. The menu is simple a good idea - divided into First Course and Second Course. This works very well as one doesnt need a lot of choices as one can eat everything on the menu. Vegetarians are usually eliminating four-fifths or more of a menu right out of the gate in most restaurants. So after seriously considering Truffled Portobello Crostini with Apple Celeric Compote: balsamic vinegar reduction, truffle corstini and lavender honey, I go with Sous-Vide Poached Egg with Crispy Sweet Potato: meyer lemon foam, greens and horseradish oil. Both my waitress and the server make the point that I should thoroughly mix the various parts of this dish before eating. Wow! What a brilliant idea this really works. Youve got warm-cool, crispy-soft, bland-spicy, runny-dry, and lots of great flavors all happening in harmony. This was the big winner of the night. I was having more trouble picking a Second Course. I intended to go with the favorite of the NT Times reviewer, but it was no longer on the menu. I settled on something unusual (for me at least), Anson Mills Creamy Grits with Smoked Hominy: avacado, queso fresco and roasted tomato-poblano salsa. I surmised that this down-home, mid-America sounding dish would be just the ticket for my weekend theme - dont accept New York as cutting-edge Mecca on reputation alone.*** Well, this dish was fine, but it couldnt keep up with the superior opening act. After couple of bites, I did come to appreciate the simple comfort food that was the objective. But the dessert almost did measure up to the appetizer Black Cocoa Cake, with Chocolate-Bourbon Glaze: sweet chestnut filling and espresso ice cream. (Like most of the rest of the world) I consider myself an authority on chocolate this was great. And the big surprise was that the chef de cuisine herself, Amanda Cohen, served me. After a perfunctory inquiry about the meal, she mentioned that she noticed I was carrying the Times review. Given the fact that I had had this article tightly folded into the palm of my hand and was reading it very discreetly, Ms. Cohens observation really impressed me. And that says something else about Heirloom people are paying attention to their diners. As a merchant myself, that virtually says it all.

New York City Restaurant Reviews and Other Matters of the Hat

Briefly: For an over-priced brunch at the Carnegie Deli you can get insulted by grumpy old-school waitresses at no extra charge. Dukes on Broadway in Midtown makes a good sandwich (hot or cold) highlighted by the bread.

** My philosophy professor friend (and a native New Yorker) argues that not eating animals is really quite conservative philosophy anything but an eccentric stretch in thinking. For those of you still grappling with this question, ask yourself if your cousins should suffer so that they can be your food. Then realize that we are all animals differing only by some matter of degree.

In NYC for The Headwear Associations 98th annual dinner at Tavern on the Green in Central Park, I was enthusiastic about trying a restaurant that I had seen reviewed some months previously in the NY Times. Favoring vegetarian cuisine for the past 16 years (James Rachels 1990 book CREATED FROM ANIMALS: The Moral Implications of Darwinism sealed this decision back then), I have been waiting for what I knew would arrive some day- Vegetarian Fine Dining. So on the evening of St. Patricks Day, the day after the association dinner (good event but, at best, middling meal at T on the G), I set off for the East Village and Heirloom. I wasnt disappointed. When one enters most vegetarian restaurants, what is almost always palpable is the fidelity of the staff to the work. It feels good to be at a business where the people working there have a passion for what they are doing. In the case of vegetarian restaurants, for most staff, it is also a philosophical conviction that they are doing is the right thing.* So in Heirloom, you are met by hip, attractive, friendly well-dressed hostesses, wait persons, bar tenders, with whom you are on the same wave length (theres also something sexy about this but unfortunately I am old enough to be these peoples father). They might be cut from the same cloth as the jeans and t-shirt people that you encounter in most veggie joints, but here were all playing dress-up its fun, its sophisticated, the dcor is cool, its all well done. Its also an important statement Vegetarianism** is not mutually exclusive from fine dining.

*** I met Diane Feen, the editor of the yearly HAT LIFE Directory and bi-monthly HAT LIFE Newsletter at Bergdorf-Goodman, a NYC department store temple, for a visit to the mens and womens hat departments and lunch. Hats were way over-priced and their lunch special fussilli that I ordered was runny and tasteless (I think they opened a can of tomato sauce and poured it on poorly drained pasta no kidding) - this was the worst meal I can remember eating at a restaurant in a long time ($18!). And, everywhere you looked, women were wearing full-length fur coats (okay with MOMA I guess, but it would be equally okay if I tossed a gallon of blood on these ignoramuses). What are these pathetic people thinking? This could never happen in California.

Fred Belinsky

* I spent that afternoon at The Museum of Modern Art where a MOMA lecturer argued that the modern art object need not be beautiful, need not be skillfully executed, need not be tangible. Nothing mattered but the idea and that all ideas are fair game today with no cannons and no rules. She argued for a kind of relativism where all ideas are equal and nothing mattered other than if the art was interesting. She used examples of artists shooting themselves in the foot or nailing themselves to a Volkswagen as arguably having merit as art. She, the lecturer, refused to pass any judgments on these so-called works of art (or anything for that matter). In the end, it was hyper-academic drivel really unnerving. I was left believing that this borough, where the St. Patricks Day parade organizers had refused to let gays and lesbians march, was in fact really as provincial as some argue. [But Heirloom, where something mattered, saved the day for Manhattan.]



 

Cooking Thai food in American kitchens





Maybe take a chance on one of the "Farang" restaurants (that means
foreigner.) A sign in English and photographs on the menu so ordering can
be done by pointing. And yes, the credit card size piece of ham is as small
and the eggs are as runny as they look in the picture. You can also bet that
the toast will be as cold as my high school English teachers' heart. The
"Thai" food won't much better because it's always carefully adulterated so
as not to offend the taste buds of foreigners who don't like Thai food
anyway.

Walk in, sit down and look like a customer. Catch someones' eye and have a
go at ordering. I might end up with jok (rice porridge,) khao thom (cooked
rice stewed with some meat) or even some noodles in a broth if I have to
resort to pointing to the next table and asking for the same. My first
choice though is usually pad gra pow (pronouncing "pot kapow" with a smile
on my face usually does the trick.)

Introduction to Thai Food - Pad Gra Pow

Breakfast, that's the key. I'd find myself in Thailand standing on the
street in front of my hotel or guest house that first morning in a new city
or town or village and realize that I was ravenous after yesterdays' travel.
Once more down the list of options. Eat in a nice hotel dining room where
the food tastes exactly like every other hotel dining room in the world or
is priced several times beyond what I would like to pay?

When ordering, don't be afraid to ask for mai phet (not spicy) or phet nit
noi
(a little spicy.) A popular garnish is an egg (kai) fried sunny-side-up
(dow.) Don't be frightened off by all those who say that Thai is a
difficult language to learn. Try ordering pot kapow moo kai dow, mai phet
for a very satisfying and authentic Thai breakfast.

The beauty of pad gra pow is that it's so simple that it's almost impossible
to not do well and it can be done quickly and easily. A plate of cooked
rice smothered in a stir-fry of meat and holy (or sacred) basil. It is
obviously peasant food but it's exactly what is needed to get your day off
to a good start.

In the authentic Thai restaurant, the condiment offered on the table will be
nam pla prik (fish sauce with some chopped chilies and a squeeze of lime
juice.) Just a few drops of this is sufficient to add some saltiness and a
bit of after burn to make the meal satisfying.

No. Start walking in any direction you see people are going and take a
chance on what you will find. You'll know it when you see it. Indoors,
outdoors or even street side, people are sitting and eating. Better yet is
if you see more than one operation serving food in an area and only one of
them is busy with satisfied customers while the competition stands around
contemplating a career change. If there are taxi or Tuk Tuk or Moto-Taxi
drivers starting their day there, you know you've hit the mother-lode. The
food will be good and the price right.

To prepare at home, put about two tablespoons of oil into a hot pan, chop or
mince about two tablespoons of garlic and about the same amount of chili
peppers and drop into the hot oil. Stir the garlic and chilies until the
garlic just starts to brown then add about a half pound of ground chicken
(gai) or pork (moo.) Stir the mixture until it seems to dry a little then
add a tablespoon of sugar and one or more tablespoons of Thai or Vietnamese
fish sauce. Last, add from about one half to a full cup of fresh holy basil
leaves. Give a quick stir to mix the basil in well and wilt the leaves,
remove from the heat and serve over rice. If finding fresh holy basil is a
problem go ahead and use sweet basil and the results will be close to the
original.